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Riding the Rails to Røros

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Riding the Rails to Røros, Norway

New routes to new lessons to a good view ("mia kali thea")

I rode the early train from Trondheim to Røros Mining Town excited to see this UNESCO designated site. Because the sun rises late this time of year, I dozed for part of the 2.5 hour ride succumbing to the easy sedative of a comfortable seat, dimmed lights and the smoothly rocking train --a trifecta for a tired traveler!
Røros was a copper mining town for 333 years until 1977 and many of the original wooden buildings still stand—some in their now-blackened state and many now painted in beautiful colors which bring a warmth to the harsh climate.

Wooden buildings, church, street scene, Røros, Norway
Street scene, Røros, Norway

Two days earlier at the National Gallery in Oslo, I had seen some paintings of Røros by Norwegian artist Harald  Oskar Sohlberg showing some of the wooden buildings and the Røros church. His artwork along with enthusiastic recommendations from locals provided the motivation to visit.

We arrived just after 8 AM—still before sunrise—and, bundled up and ready to explore, I disembarked into the -16C/3F morning, spotted the church and headed up a hill to try to see sunrise from that area. Walking uphill in the sharp cold is a great way to wake up and get the blood moving! I found a trail through the churchyard and watched the sun peak over the mountain and the town—every sunrise is always a treat! The day was going to be clear and bright.

snowy churchyard with church and sunrise
Sunrise in Røros, Norway

Cappuccino cup, candles, tulips, Trygstad Bakeri, Røros, Norway
Cappuccino, hygge, Trygstad Bakeri, Røros, Norway

Now what to do? I had less than 8 hours to explore the town and I wanted to wander the streets and visit the mining museum. I walked around for another hour or so until I recognized that I needed to get warm inside somewhere. I found the visitor’s center which had all the facilities and friendly advice I needed. They recommended Trygstad bakery for a refreshing historic option as it's one of the oldest bakeries in Norway. I enjoyed my cappuccino and people watching for a delightful hour ending the time with a chat with a local resident about the area and a couple more recommendations of what to see.

View of the Røros, Norway city hall from an alley lined with red wood buildings.

City Hall, Røros, NorwayI set out again to wander the old town and at the end of one alley, I stopped to take a picture of a building and I heard a voice from behind tell me it was the city hall building. After a few minutes of conversation, it turns out that my "tour guide" is none other than the mayor of Røros, Mr. Hans Vintervold, who has held the office for several terms and who clearly enjoys serving the community. I love this kind of serendipitous meeting! The city was preparing for a big dogsled race the next day and then for the very large crowds of the winter market that weekend. It would have been fun to see those events but I feel I got a more personal look at the town on this day before all the festivities.

 

Thermometer reading -16C in Thermometer, Røros, Norway
It's cold in Røros, Norway!

I pressed on through the old town, across the river and to the old smelting building which is now the museum. What a wonderful museum! I used the audio tour as my guide through the intricate dioramas.

Time flies and I still had more to see more in town so I prioritized exploration and photography over stopping for lunch. I did buy a Trygstad sandwich to eat on the train ride back to Trondheim though—a delayed delicious gratification to go along with the beautiful scenery out the window.

Trygstad Bakeri veggie sandwich for the train, Røros, Norway
Trygstad Bakeri veggie sandwich for the train, Røros, Norway

 Where did I find Mia Kali Thea that day?

'so many specific views during the day but I like the view of planning another visit to Røros!

Red buildings and trees flying by on the train ride back to Trondheim.
Scenery from the train, Røros to Trondheim, Norway

Red window frame, ochre building, rusty brace on building in Røros, Norway
Window detail, Røros, Norway

Scenes on the train ride from Scenery from the train from Røros to Trondheim, Norway
Scenery from the train, Norway

Taming the beast for the beauty of a good view

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Taming the beast for the beauty of a good view

New routes to new lessons to a good view ("mia kali thea")

Red cliffs in snow at Capitol Reef National Park, Torrey, Utah
Red cliffs at Capitol Reef National Park, Torrey, Utah

Over the winter holidays, we toured a few national parks in southern Utah and we prepared:

  • tripod for sunrise and sunset shots? Yes!
  • hand and toe warmers for taming the temps at those hours? Definitely!
  • head to toe layers of clothing? Oh yes!
  • mindset to jump out of a warm bed and tromp around in the snow to find a good spot to wait for sunrise? Not so much; this is much more difficult for me to commodify.

I love sunrises and sunsets; each one I get to experience is a blessing and bonus. Some are easier to watch than others—it’s much easier to rise in the summer than winter. Granted, winter sunrises are later but, there are the issues of low temps and snow! I find that, as I get older, I’m less tolerant of the cold.

When I lived in interior Alaska, I often was out for errands or even recreation at beastly temps of -30 or more. Yes, it could be uncomfortable and even dangerous but, you work with the weather you have. You prepare, you dress for it and try to be wise and smart in how you interact with your environment.

On this trip, the weather and skies were not very promising for sunrises with snow showers and fog predicted. I was a bit sad to miss the clear mornings but also secretly happy that we’d not be heading out into the cold so early! However, one morning was going to be clear so we planned to go out to a place we’d scouted and see what revealed itself.

The morning was clear and only about 14F. We had very low fog moving through the canyons ahead of us but our planned spot was clear: starry skies, untrod snow, red cliffs with just enough “powdered sugar” snow clinging to them, and ice fog crystals on the trees. We only saw one other photographer in the general area. We set up the camera and waited.frosty branches at Capitol Reef National Park, Torrey, Utah

We watched the sun rise above the fog, create “diamonds” in the ice crystals of the trees and grasses and illuminate the red cliffs all around us. It was beautiful as sunrises always are with the promises of a new day—even if not spectacular for photographs. My toes and hands were warm and, most importantly, I was sharing sunrise with my Sweetheart. It was exhilarating.

With my Sweetheart at sunrise

What a privilege: to be another day older, to be on a trip to a new place and with my boon companion, with a lovely camera for photographs, plenty of clothing, toe and hand warmers and a sunrise as a bonus.

I offered a prayer for those for whom the brightness of the day does not bring so much gladness and warmth; there are many.

Where did I find mia kali thea that day?

In the cold and snow, in the glow of red cliffs, in the warmth of much gratitude and in the hope and promise of the new day’s sunrise.

Sunrise at Capitol Reef National Park, Torrey, Utah

A Good View of Doing….

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A Good View of Doing….

New routes to new lessons to a good view ("mia kali thea")

view of almost empty desk with a single desk lamp

…nothing. He was just sitting at his clean desk with only a small desk lamp to light the dark room.  And, it was quiet—no radio, no TV, no computer.  After a long day of travel, this was the scene we saw that evening when we walked into my 93 year old father-in-law’s assisted living apartment.  It looked so sad and lonely.

Or was it?

We were talking about the scene later.  Why wasn’t he reading or watching the news or working a puzzle…anything?

I’m a victim to my own need for noise and things to do.  I simply don’t sit in the quiet and wait—for thoughts & feelings to arise, to listen—to the sounds in my heart or out the window, to doze, to dream, for kids to arrive.

We have so many options available to teach us how to make the most of our time, to “be still,” to “sit in the silence,” to meditate and to breathe.  I often want to take a break for “doing nothing” but why is it so difficult to sit for a few minutes, to relax and take time—in the quiet.  What am I afraid of?

Trees showing through the fog and reflecting in a lake in South Carolina
Foggy morning in South Carolina

Deep down, perhaps I think it’s sad and lonely and wasteful to have nothing to do.  If I listen to my fear, what if I hear: “I don’t matter or have anything meaningful to contribute” or “I’m wasting my time”?  What if I simply listen…and get clarification of my thoughts, feelings and ideas?  What if I simply enjoy the peace? 

I don’t know if he was thinking great thoughts, dreaming dreams or if he felt sad and lonely; but I can follow his example—to sit in the quiet in an uncluttered space and wait.

Where did I find mia kali thea that evening?  


In a dark and quiet room where my sweet father-in-law waited to welcome us with a hug.  (And I think he considers us a good view too.)smiling selfie with my father-in-law

Maybe doing nothing is about being quiet—and waiting for what arrives!

In any case, it is very important to be idle with confidence, with devotion, possibly even with joy. The days when even our hands do not stir are so exceptionally quiet that it is hardly possible to raise them without hearing a whole lot.” 

― Rainer Maria Rilke, Letters on Life

Priceless: the value of a good view.

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Priceless: the value of a good view

New routes to new lessons to a good view ("mia kali thea")

Bright sun in partly cloudy winter sky shining over snowy trees and ground.
Fairbanks, Alaska

A good view changes us—our perspective, our mood, our health and hearts. That’s the power of mia kali thea—a good view creates good change.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I learned the concept of mia kali thea (link to the “about the name”) when I lived in Greece for a couple of years. When discussing a restaurant or hotel or home or coffee shop, my Greek friends would ask: is there a good view? Did you have a good view? It was a tangible and common conversation point.

As it’s a basic Greek concept, here are the “5 Ws” of mia kali thea according to my friends:

The who, what and where and when of a good view (a very abridged list!):

  • a cup of coffee with friends
  • Sunrises and sunsets
  • A good book
  • Travel
  • good food
  • Something that can change with the season or mood

How does mia kali thea change you and why is it important (another short list)?

  • it gives hope
  • it calms and lifts hearts
  • it creates good emotions
  • it helps me travel in my imagination

What can we learn from this?

Bright sun shining on sunflower field, Platamonas, Greece
Sunflower field, Platamonas, Greece

As you see, mia kali thea is varied: it’s big, it’s little, it’s seasonal, it’s grand and not so grand, it can be shared and it can be a solitary appreciation, it’s found at home or afield.

A good view is good for us; we can feel the change in ourselves and even those around us. It’s readily available but it does require a stop or slowing (at the very least!) to catch it and recognize it’s value.

A good view can feel amorphous and intangible but it has been studied and quantified. Patients heal faster and workers’ moods improve when they have a good view. Researchers studying the concept of “awe” and associated positive emotions (e.g. from faith, viewing nature or art, listening to good music) show that we can lower our body’s inflammatory responses, we become more generous and socially conscious, we feel like we have more time, that our regular experience of awe is an incredible predictor of and is essential for good health. Here’s a good article on how to add more awe to your life.

In short, a good view is good medicine! It’s powerful and priceless, isn’t it?

Of course the Greeks have lived this idea for years and they look for a good view wherever and whenever it comes. I believe it’s one of the many reasons they are so open and generous. I thank them for sharing this concept with me; because of them my heart grew exponentially while I was there. It took me a long time to slow down enough to understand; perhaps that’s why we talked about it so much! Though I’m still learning, it’s lodged in my heart and driving my creative process.

Everyone needs hope and a heart lift.

Everyone needs a change in perspective, a moment to see something new, a bit of serendipity.

Everyone needs mia kali thea—a good view.

Many of us have the luxury to consider where we will find a good view and the meaning of it. However, many struggle daily hoping for even the “light at the end of the tunnel”—a symbolic good view. They want a new view of freedom or safety instead of a life of slavery or human trafficking (link to about the org here). 

There is power in the mission of Mia Kali Thea; for those who need a new view, we can help exchange a sad view for a good view (link to about the org).

Today, where will you find the priceless power of mia kali thea?

Seoul Adventures

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Seoul Adventures:

New routes to new lessons to a good view (“mia kali thea”)

I’d had a wonderful morning touring Cheondukkung Palace and was walking a new route from the palace to Bukchon Village to see an artist friend. It was hot, very muggy and I was getting hungry.

I looked ahead and saw a man sharpening knives on the next corner. He was sitting in a shady spot on the curb near his supplies cart. You don’t see these men on every street corner in Seoul, at least I don’t in all my meanderings. The last time I saw a knife sharpener was about 15 years ago. I’d wanted his picture. But, I don’t take pictures of people because I’m too afraid.

When I was in college taking a basic psychology course, we were assigned an experiment to do something for a week that was typically against cultural norms; e.g. standing close to someone in an elevator or talking very loudly, etc. I chose to walk around with my camera and a long lens and pretend to take pictures of people…in an elevator or the school dining hall. This was in the 80’s when cameras were not so common. What did I learn by this experiment? People don’t like cameras pointed their way, they turn away, they react angrily, etc. How did I apply that lesson for the past decades of my life as a photographer? Don’t take people’s pictures because it bothers them and they don’t like it. I was a good student to apply my lessons!

I saw my first knife sharpener in another district of Seoul as I was showing some people around the area. He was sitting on a small stool doing his work next to a wall. I liked the simplicity of the task, the “old worldness” of it, the fact that the man was willing to ply his trade anywhere and the novelty of the job as something we don’t see in America. But being with others, being too afraid to stop and ask him, I simply walked by, turned to look at him again and, with regret, kept going. That “scene-that-got-away” haunts me often as I’m in a city photographing.

I had not seen another knife sharpener until this day. I took a long distance shot of the knife sharpener which seemed unfair and sneaky. When I reached him I stopped to watch, smiled, said hi, looked at his cart and hoped that seeing the 2 cameras dangling on my shoulders might prompt him to invite me to snap a picture or 2! But, being too afraid of a negative reaction to ask him to take pictures, I turned and, with regret, kept going.

About 20 yards into my journey, I paused on the sidewalk and had a little debate with myself about stretching beyond my comfort zone. I snapped a photo of something else that intrigued me (not people!) trying to convince myself that this is what I wanted. I thought about the knife sharpener from the past and the one I just passed. I walked a few more steps. “The only answer is ‘no’ if you don’t ask” flashed in my mind. What if he does say yes—do I have the skills to capture him and his job? How do I do this? Can I do this? Surprisingly, even with my fear of people shots and limited Korean language skills, I do know how to ask to take someone’s photo in addition to the universal sign language of a smile and holding up your camera. I made some camera adjustments, took a deep breath and went back.

He agreed that I could take his picture! So, I crouched as near as I dared and took about a dozen shots as he worked—though I hardly moved because of my fear of imposing. Then I used my phone to catch a video as he worked. I wanted to take more pictures of him, his work, his fascinating cart and all the details of it but I believed I had bothered him enough—that’s my own perception not from any indications from him. I told him thank you and to work well (more of my Korean vocabulary) and, this time with a big song in my heart, retraced my steps.

I needed mia kali thea (“a good view”) for myself to rewrite old psychology class lessons.

I needed a new, good view for myself for my city photography. Could I have done better with composition, etc? Yes, I let some fear and adrenaline rush and paralyze me. Will I now start talking to people and taking their pictures? We’ll see but I now have a bit more confidence and less fear about the idea of it!

Just beyond my previous turn around point, I stopped in a small cafe for lunch. About 5 minutes after I arrived, the knife sharpener came to the restaurant to deliver sharp knives to the chef. I had just watched him work on the knives for this restaurant! Before I left, I showed the video of him to the chef and the waitress and they smiled.

The whole collusion of events seems to complete a little circle in my mind—and definitely in my heart. I only have mental snapshots of the knife sharpener from long ago but, with this opportunity, I overcame a mental roadblock, stepped past some old fears, expanded my view and connected with someone along the way.

As we say on this site: “Everyone needs “a good view”; where will you find Mia Kali Thea today?”

Where did I find Mia Kali Thea that day?

—on a hot though shaded street corner in Seoul through the generosity of a knife sharpener.

p.s. I’d like to find him the next time I visit; maybe this time I’ll get some close-ups of his cart!

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